Charging Your Marker
So your ready to start training your new dog. You tell her to sit and.... nothing. We need to start by getting her to pay attention. This is generally done with food treats. Your dog needs to be food motivated so you may need to skip a meal or two to get to the starting point. Once she is food motivated and ready to work, now we can start "charging the marker". By marker we mean some sort of signal that she has done well and is about to be rewarded for it. Dogs live in the moment, second to second, so we must signal them the instant we get the behaviour we are looking for. Just giving the reward without a marker is ambiguous for the dog, he may think he just lucked out, and you will not be able to present the reword at the exact right moment every time. The marker will establish anticipation and attention.
The marker can be anything, some people use a clicker but that can be inconvenient when you can't find it. Easier to just use a word like "YES" or "GOOD".
At this stage we are not trying to teach commands, just establishing the marker and payment. So suppose he is on a leash, walk backward away from him and stop lure him into a sit position but don't name the command just say "GOOD" hold the food in front of you so he's looking at your face then give the food. If he moves away give a negative signal "NO" and withhold the food. When he looks at you again "GOOD" and treat. Repeat this many, many times until he knows "GOOD" means payday. Again we are not naming any commands at this stage because we are only teaching that "GOOD", or clicker or whatever you are using means a reward is coming. This is called "charging the marker" and once you have that firmly established you are ready to start using your marker to teach any behaviour. Don't forget she needs to be food motivated for this to work. Some trainers, when doing continuous training, will never feed the dog from a bowl because they are using food strictly as rewards and they are getting all their food that way, but if you are not working that intensely with your dog, remember that they have been getting fed all through the training process and to cut back some at feeding time. We don't want a bunch of fat dogs even if they are beautifully trained.
Have fun and keep heading Duenorth, the right direction to a well trained dog.
Why do dogs scratch the ground after peeing
Divots all over the lawn, gravel flying all over. Someone just had a pee. But why do dogs need to scratch the ground after peeing? Actually, only around 10 percent of dogs do it," said Rosie Bescoby, a clinical animal behaviorist with the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors in the United Kingdom and she says that it appears to occur equally in males and females, although it was observed that males that do it, do it more frequently than the females that do it, which may be why most people think it is a male thing.
A 2004 paper studied 12 female Jack Russels, 6 spayed and 6 intact and watched their urinary behaviors. They observed that these dogs were more likely to urinate more frequently and aim their urine at objects when away from home in comparison to when they were walked close to home and concluded that scent marking was an important function of urination, especially away from home area. Male dogs have also been observed to raise their legs more frequently to urinate when in the presence of another dog. We can corroborate this from observations in our boarding kennel where all the dogs are away from home and around strange dogs.
But still why the scratching? Most studies conclude that, given the marking functions explained above, the scratching is just a method of distributing that scent over wider territory. In addition, dogs have sweat glands in their paw pads and by scratching at the ground they are also adding that additional scent to the already lovely odour.
Most studies also hypothesize that the marks left on the ground contribute a visual component
to the marking function of the behaviour for passers by. Scientists who study this sort of thing call this a composite signal.
At any rate, ground scratching is not a behaviour we need to discourage, just stand clear when the dirt starts flying. Have fun and keep heading Duenorth, the right direction to a well trained dog.
Physiology Today, Ground Scratching by Dogs: Scent, Sight, and Ecstasy, Mark Bekoff PhD March 03, 2019
Eileen and dogs, Ground Scratching: Why Does My Dog Do It? Eileen Anderson, December 02, 2014
Live Science, Why do dogs scratch the ground after they pee? Emma Bryce, August 04 2018.
PetMD, 12 Dog Peeing Positions and What They Mean. Jennifer Coates DVM
Can Dogs feel guilty?
You’ve come home to find the counter cleared off and the empty bread bag on the floor with Fido nearby, head down eyes averted looking guilty as hell. But does she really feel guilt.
Seventy-four percent of dog owners believe that their dogs experience guilt. It sure looks like guilt. Psychologists label feelings like happiness and fear as primary emotions, that is a direct response to external events, and there is plenty of evidence of these emotions in dogs. But emotions like jealousy, pride, and guilt are termed secondary emotions and are feelings about feelings. There has been little evidence of secondary emotions in animal cognition literature.
That does not mean that dogs do not experience guilt but perhaps that hang dog look is really something else. Charles Darwin observed that the types of behaviours associated with guilt - keeping one's head down, and averting one's gaze - are also seen in other social non-human primate species. These behaviours have been interpreted as a means to mitigate retaliation for transgressions in social groups and as such are more pragmatic than emotion based. Indeed, anecdotally pet owners report that they chastise their pets less harshly when these displays of apparent guilt for transgressions are displayed. Is Fido, then, attempting to lessen the anticipated reprimand rather than actually feeling guilt?
A group of canine cognition researchers from Eotvos Lorand University in Budapest, created an experiment to find out. Sixty-four dogs were selected and a normal greeting behaviour was established for each. Then the dogs were presented with an opportunity to misbehave when left alone in a room (stealing food from a table) and the greeting behaviour when their owners returned was recorded for both those that had misbehaved and those that had not. Keep in mind that they were all aware of the possibility that they may be in trouble.
The two groups were equally likely to display guilt type behaviours whether they had transgressed or not.
It seems like the guilt type behaviours are a means of mitigating an anticipated punishment and probably not an emotional response.
Reference: Scientific American By Jason G. Goldman on May 31, 2012
Business Insider: Dogs don't experience guilt. Ben Gilbert
The Dodo: Think Your Dog Has A "Guilty" Look? Think Again. Julie Hecht
Welcome to our new feature where each Sunday we will delve into the world of science as related to dogs. These posts will be our crude interpretation of recent scientific studies in the canine world. Today's topic:
Early Exposure to pets effect on mental health
It has been well know (to some) that some psychiatric disorders may be linked to environmental exposure to immune system disrupters in early life.
Dr Robert Yolken of Johns Hopkins Children's Center conducted a study investigating the relationship between exposure to a household pet cat or dog during the first 12 years of life and a later diagnosis of schizophrenia or bipolar disorder.
The study found a statistically significant decrease in the prevalence of schizophrenia in those exposed to a dog early in life. Yolken found as much as 24% fewer schizophrenia diagnosis among those brought up with pet dogs before their 13th birthday.
Yolken did not find any such relationship between exposure to dogs and bi-polar disorder. More significantly, he found no significant relationship between exposure to cats and either schizophrenia or bi-polar, however there was a slight increase in risk of developing either disorder for those who were first in contact with cats between the ages of 9 and 12.
Multiple epidemiological studies conducted since 1953 have shown there also is a statistical connection between a person exposed to the parasite that causes toxoplasmosis and an increased risk of developing schizophrenia. Toxoplasmosis, is a condition in which cats are the primary hosts of a parasite transmitted to humans.
Some of our own thoughts on this are:
My interest since early childhood has been in breeding and training dogs. My young family, in the late 1980’s was more interested in camping and adventure sports so we spent most of our time on canoe trips and expeditions and I was limited to one family dog. Then I came up with an idea. If we just got a couple of Huskies, we could go winter camping too. The dogs could pull the gear and we would be able to snowshoe or ski along with them.
Well a couple of Huskies just wasn’t cutting it, and the dogsledding caught on with the family so we started accumulating sled dogs and joining sledding groups. We had to have more dogs to keep up with our new sledding buddies and the first part of my dream came true when I started breeding Siberians. A breeding kennel has to have a name and since Siberians and sledding exemplify the north and my husband was involved in land surveying at the time we settled on DueNorth as our kennel name and registered with the CKC in 1991 .
Needless to say the canoe tripping was now a thing of the past with up to thirty sled dogs to care for year round. Eventually as they and we aged the sledding took a back seat and, since we had a kennel anyway and my husband, by this time, was excellent at picking up dog poop we started to take on boarders but kept the DueNorth kennel name.
So the DueNorth name still brings back fond memories of long canoe trips in northern Ontario and multi day dog sledding expeditions with like minded friends and our beautiful Flat Coats never question why they are named DueNorth.
Years ago, when we were a dog sledding kennel and breeding Siberian Huskies, my main interest was, and still is training obedience. Now it turns out that Siberians are not the first choice when it comes to obedience, being very independent minded; and that brings me to the subject of this post; does breeding for specific traits really work?
Siberians needed absolutely no training when it came to pulling a sled, or anything else, but in competition obedience they make you work for every point. My girl Maddie absolutely refused to do the retrieve exercise and was not really keen on the scent articles either. Unfortunately pulling things was not a requirement for the obedience ring.
Years later we left the sledding world behind and I got my first Flat Coated Retriever, and holy cow he just did the retrieve exercise right out of the box. You throw something he brought it back.
Then you have your herding breeds. I’ve seen young children traumatized by the family Border Collie trying to keep them grouped together. A friend in the sledding world had Malamutes, but was of the opinion that any dog could do any job and took one of her dogs to a herding demonstration where the contestants were to do some work with a flock of ducks. After the demise of several members of the flock, she was asked to leave.
These traits have been inbred into working breeds for many generations. If you are interested in pure bred dogs you really need to do your research to see what the breed was bred to do and not just pick by appearance. For instance: the Doberman Pinscher were originally bred as guard dogs, German Shepherds as herding dogs, Terrier breeds were bred to “go to ground” after burrowing rodents, not good if your into gardening. The Bulldog was bred for the now rightfully banned and grotesque sport of bull baiting where the winner of the match was the dog that survived and was able to bring down a bull, and of course those Northern breeds were meant for pulling, which brings us back to Maddie.
It took me two years but eventually she got her CDX title and was the second highest scoring Siberian in the country, so it can be done, but it sure is easier with a Retriever.
Most dog training is actually occurring in your home while you are simply hanging out with your dog whether you are aware of it or not.
Taking a group class is not as time consuming as it seems and can provide high quality training for a very reasonable fee. You do have to spend about 20 to 30 minutes a day doing some work at home but you should be spending that time with your dog anyway.
If you feel that a group class is not something that you have time for you have a couple of different options.
You can usually find a trainer that will provide you with a similar sort of conventional obedience class in a private format that will take a bit less time and be more focused on you and your dog. Look for a trainer that has dogs of their own to supply some socialization for your dog. Of course there still is that training at home that you must do.
Another option is to move to a totally different method of training such as a remote collar. Dogs typically learn a great deal faster with this method because it creates total attention when you are working with the dog. Dogs become far more reliable with remote collars. Trainers that use remote collars will work with you to develop your skills and can have all the basic skills firmly entrenched in your dog in two weeks. With this method, you do all the training yourself under the guidance of the trainer. So although the two weeks is fairly intense in terms of training it is a safe, reliable form of training that is well set in a very short period of time.
The final option is a board and train. With this method you drop your dog off at a kennel and the trainer does all the work for you and you go back in two weeks and pick up a trained dog. You will be paying for a professional to work with your dog daily (usually several times a day) and you will also be paying for the boarding. Also included in the price is the guarantee for further training should it ever become necessary. This will make this the more expensive choice. This method results in a very well trained dog that only requires maintenance to keep up the level of obedience. If you chose a kennel that does boarding to train your dog, your dog will usually receive a free brush up when they are boarded.
Remote collar training has the added bonus of being able to correct a vast number of problem behaviours.
It is vitally important to seek out professional help with remote collars so that the dog learns first how its actions can turn the collar off. Simply putting a collar on and pressing the button will create a confused and frightened dog and will make future training much more costly and difficult.
It can happen in a split second when an older dog tries to attack a younger dog. This can have a very severe effect on a young dog especially when it didn’t see the attack coming and the pup was not doing anything wrong at all. Yes I have seen adult dogs do this and it is not okay….it is not okay at all. I had this happen to one of my own dogs many years ago and it took years for my dog to recover from it. All dogs go through critical fear periods that are very well documented in scholarly literature. The first one occurs between 8 and 11 weeks of age: It is really important not to frighten the puppy during this time, since any traumatic event during this time will have a profound long term effect. Now your pup has the brain wave an adult dog and this is the ideal time to go to his new home. He can now learn the basics of come and sit. Potty training can begin now Housebreaking begins. He now learns by association. He is ready now to start to bond with his human, accept some gentle discipline and develop confidence. Children or animal should not be allowed to hurt or scare the puppy -- either maliciously or inadvertently. It is very important now to introduce other humans, but he must be closely supervised to minimize adverse conditioning. Learning at this age is permanent. If puppies have “bad” or scary experiences during this time, the impressions are likely to last a lifetime and resurface during maturity. So, protect your puppy from these long-term effects by avoiding bad experiences. Should your puppy become afraid for any reason, dangerous or not, immediately step in and remove him/her from the situation. That is good parenting!
Let your dogs meet safe, calm non reactive dogs during this period, so that your dog learns social behaviour from the best that you can find.
The Second Fear impact period (6 - 14 Months): Also called, "The fear of situations period", usually corresponds to growths spurts. This critical age may depend on the size of the dog. The fear period at this stage lasts about one month and can vary depending on the size of the dog. During this time a reactive dog or any other scary event can affect the puppy for the rest of his life. Take great care not to frighten your dog during this period. Soothing tones may serve to validate his fear. His fear should be handled with patience and kindness, and training during this period should put the dog in a position of success, while allowing him to work things out while building self-confidence. Praise during training experiences goes a long way to overcoming fear.
As many will know, we have been running Sport Scent Dog Discrimination classes at the Academy for some time now. In researching for presentation of this class I ran across a recent study published in a scientific journal presenting some insight to the extent that scent plays in the life of our canine family members.
The study was designed to identify any differences in response to human vs canine scents. But what I found more interesting than the result, was the whole experimental design and training involved to carry it out.
According to the study there is a well known area of the brain responsible for prediction of a reward. The study group used a functional MRI to examine the brain’s response to various scents. Now I have never personally been in an MRI machine, but from what I have seen on TV and heard anecdotally, they are loud, Closter phobic and scary. And that’s for humans! The dogs had to be trained to remain motionless with there head on a chin rest inside the machine for 30 minutes at a time while the scents were presented!
Quoting directly from the report;
“The program was based on acclimatization to the MRI scanner noise, tight scanner enclosure, scanner steps, and operating vibrations and the shaping and ultimate chaining of several requisite behaviors. To do this, we constructed two replica MRIs, each of which consisted of a tube of approximately the same dimensions as the inner bore of the actual Siemens MRI, a patient table, portable steps, and multiple simulated receiver coils that adhered closely to the dimensions of a human neck coil. We also constructed a proprietary chin rest that facilitated comfort and proper positioning for the animals and that adapted the apparatus for the uniqueness of the canine anatomy. Once the animals became confident and competent regarding all the preparatory steps – proven by completing a simulated MRI in the replica apparatus – we then performed live scans in the actual MRI.”…” They were all highly proficient remaining in the chin rest, wearing ear muffs, while hearing the scanner sounds.”
And further on:
“Training for the smell experiment consisted of biweekly instruction at our training facility and practice at home with the mock head coil and chin rest. Because the dogs were already proficient in the basic behavior of placing the head in the chin rest and remaining motionless, the added training was aimed at acclimating the dogs to the presentation of a cotton swab in front of the nose. Using 6-in. sterile cotton swabs, handlers moved the swab to within a centimeter of the dog's nose. In the initial stage of training, dogs were rewarded quickly for not moving either toward or away from the swab. This was achieved through either clicker or praise and followed by a food reward. Once dogs demonstrated proficiency at not reacting to the swab, we replaced the clicker and praise with the hand signal learned in the original experiment. The hand signal thus functioned as a “visual clicker indicating correct behavior and imminent reward (because clickers cannot be heard reliably in the scanner)”
The scents presented were ;
· Familiar Human
· Strange Human
· Familiar Dog
· Strange Dog
In every case, each of the scents stimulated the olfactory area of the brain, but the area associated with positive expectations was stimulated maximally by the familiar human scent, negatively by the strange human and strange dog and not at all by the dog’s own scent. (I’m not clear how the negative responses were measured)
What we can take away from this is the malleability of our dog’s behaviour even in situations most humans find uncomfortable, and what every dog owner already knew, the extent of olfactory experience in the dog’s life.
It may be interesting in our next Scent Dog Detection Class to try the Familiar Human scent experiment. The complete study can be found at : http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0376635714000473
Don Robertson guest blogger
I’ve been hanging around on the periphery of the dog world for a number of years now. My lifetime partner is a committed dog person so the majority of my interaction involves repairing damage and retrieving shit, but with that comes some opportunity for learning, if only by absorption.
So what I’ve absorbed so far is that the most stressed and erratic dogs we get in the boarding kennel are also the least trained. Untrained dogs, do not understand that there is someone else in charge of the situations in which they find themselves, and therefore take on the responsibility of Head Honcho themselves . This can be very stressful. I avoid it myself whenever possible. The roll of Head Honcho may involve aggression, aloofness, irritability and all the other signs we’ve all seen in bad bosses.
Basic obedience training reassures the dog that someone else is in charge and they can relax and be themselves. This does not necessarily work with bosses but from what I’ve observed is very effective with dogs. In the teenage vernacular "their like cool you be in charge, I'm gonna play".
Dogs with even rudimentary obedience training accept the condition that someone else is in charge and are more laid back, easier to handle and more contented.
Come to think of it, I'm pretty laid back, contented and easy to handle myself. Hmmmm?
Unless you have seen a dog trained with an electronic collar it is hard to believe just how fast dogs can be trained. Since time is a big factor in our busy world this form of dog training becomes a very attractive option for many family dogs.
Most people assume that electronic collars are only for problem dogs, but the truth is even the softest dogs can be trained very effectively with an electronic collar.
If 100% reliability is also a part of the training requirements that you want for your dog then electronic collars are your very best choice.
Don’t go out and buy the cheapest collar that you can find. There is a huge difference in the quality of the collars that are available. A good electronic collar absolutely MUST be rechargeable. The ones that take batteries don’t last nearly as long as the rechargeable collars. There is also a huge difference in the stimulation that is delivered with the rechargeable collars having softer and better graduated increments in the levels.
Most of the criticism of electronic collars is based on the assumption that the collar is used only to punish a dog for doing something wrong. This is not the most effective way to train a dog because the dog quickly learns that the collar is responsible for the punishment and will quickly go back to the bad habits you are trying to stop.
Electronic collar training is better understood as a form of communication. Consider that not all communication is verbal. A lot of communication is visual and some of it is also tactile.
Tactile stimulation is often merely a tap on the shoulder or even a caress. Electronic collar training is the best form of tactile stimulation and because of this it has been used for deaf dogs with great success. Because the levels of electronic collars can be easily adjusted the collar can be most effective when used in the most distracting environments
A best way to train a dog with an electronic collar is to train in conjunction with positive reinforcers like food. If the dog is trained with a level that feels little more than a mosquito bite and with the addition of food, all dogs can be easily and happily trained with an electronic collar. In this form of training the dog is trained to perform in a reliable, gentle way. The dog is shown that coming back to the owner is the way to stop the stimulation from occurring and from there every other behaviour is added to the training repertoire. Training includes not pulling on the leash, sitting quickly when the owner stops and one of the best things it includes is place. Place means that the dog will not leave a designated spot even if someone is at the door. In my house we have to be very careful if we are handling our electronic collars because our dogs absolutely love them. All their training has been done in a positive way, often using food or toys as rewards.
When it comes to reliability nothing quite compares to electronic collar training.
Socialization is vital to the mental and physical development of dogs. Socialization should begin in the birth home of the puppy. Good breeders will introduce puppies to stable older dogs so that they begin to learn appropriate dog behaviour. Of course a huge part of their social development occurs with their mom and their litter mates. This socialization should be continued in their new homes and continue for the life of the dog.
However the period of time from about 8 weeks when your puppy comes home to 5 months is a critical period of time for your puppy. It is absolutely imperative that owners take advantage of this tiny window of opportunity to provide the social experiences that their dog is going to need for the rest of its life. Failure to do so will result in dogs that are difficult to live with at best.
Depending on your breed of dog and how it was raised, puppies go through fear periods when potentially threatening experiences can have profound effects on your puppy.
But perhaps doing nothing with your puppy can be even more devastating for the future well being of your dog.
Puppies need to have as much exposure as possible to new and safe experiences. Take them to as many places as you can think of. Most puppies can fit in a smallish crate in even the smallest of cars. Take them to clean areas to avoid the risk of any infection before they have completed all their vaccinations. I take my puppies in a canvas shopping bag to ensure they are not touching the floor and to prevent any accidents. This only works for a short period of time as they increase in weight but it makes it possible for them to visit many places. My bank tellers love it when I walk in with a new pup in my bag. As they get older and have had their shots take them down busy streets, into pet food stores and in clean and safe parks where they can meet new people. Take them in elevators and on stairs. Take them to fields and forest trails. Let them experience life.
Introduce your puppy to safe, puppy friendly older dogs. If you know of someone that has a kind and gentle puppy, that will work too but beware of puppy bullies. Intervene in any rough play immediately if you feel that your pup is not happy or showing any signs of fear at all.
Once your pup reaches the ripe old age of 5 months the main period of socialization is over for good. You can still socialize your dog but it will require a far greater effort for very small gains.
The first sense that a puppy develops is the sense of smell. And for the life of your dog that will remain his first and foremost sense as he learns to explore the world that he lives in.
It is estimated that the dog’s sense of smell is about 2,000 times greater than a human’s sense of smell.
Humans determined long ago that it might be a good idea to put that natural ability to good use. And so many dogs have been partnered with their human companion, to hunt with their nose or track with their nose. Others have been trained to detect drugs, gas leaks, and many other things. It seems that there is no limit to the dog’s ability to find things through its sense of smell.
If you ever thought about doing something with your dog but are not keen on the discipline required to train for obedience, agility or Rally you might consider a sport that is a lot less rigorous. No running involved at all! Exploring the world of canine scent detection is a totally positive and rewarding sport that gives your dog a job to do that he already knows how to do better than you do! All that you have to do is teach him exactly what it is that you want him to find and go from there. Sport scent detection is a new dog sport that includes dogs from every size and shape. Any breed or mix of breeds can be involved in doing scent dog work. All that is required is a nose!
Nose work training teaches your dog to find one of three scents, wherever you decide to hide it. In nose work competitions, there are four locations involved in searching: interiors, exteriors, containers, and vehicles.
Canine scent detection is good for shy dogs, older dogs and some dogs that are not as comfortable in strange places. It gives them a job to do that involves a skill that they already possess.
Nose work training begins with encouraging the dog to hunt. This is encouraged through the use of positive reinforcement, while you learn how to read your dog’s body language to determine when your dog has found the required scent. Positive reinforcement can be food, a ball or something like a tug toy.
Gradually scent detection is enhanced and developed by encouraging the dog to search in increasingly difficult locations and with less and less scent.
We are pleased to announce that we are again teaching a canine sport scent detection class in November. This class will be held in Peterborough and limited to only 6 students.
If you have decided to buy a puppy, there are some things you need to know in advance. Puppies are in a litter with their mom for about 8 weeks. Toy breeds should stay a bit longer because they are slower maturing. Puppies need to stay with their litter because this is the time that they learn their social skills. It is much like children in day care and grade school. They learn how to read other kids and how to react appropriately.
They also learn bite inhibition from their siblings and from their mom. Even singleton puppies will learn these things from the mother. Don’t ever let a breeder talk you into taking a puppy younger than 7 weeks. A breeder is there to make sure her puppies are everything they should be, well socialized, healthy and confident pups.
Look for a breeder who does things with the puppies. Getting puppies out of the litter box and out on a walk with their mom and siblings prepares them for the real world. They learn how to negotiate walking through stones and grass and they are introduced to a world of new smells. If your breeder has not done things like this with your puppy, you can do some of this yourself as soon as you get the puppy home. Most puppies will stay right with you, so let the puppy drag a very light leash so that it gets used to the leash. Gradually start picking the leash up and encourage the pup to go with you on the leash.
Take your pup everywhere you go as long as the weather is not extreme. Take them in the car right away. Take them to pet food stores and anywhere else that it is safe and clean. Be wary of dirty pathways where a lot of dog fecal matter is lying around as your dog can pick up nasty virus before it is fully vaccinated.
Get your puppy a crate and crate train your dog. This is very important if your dog ever has to spend time at the vet or in a boarding kennel.
All this applies doubly so to farm dogs! Because they so rarely get off the farm they need to develop some socialization skills at an early age. It takes very little time to prepare a dog for trips to the vet. Your dog will be happier for it as well your veterinarian.
Puppies at this age do very well with some easy obedience training that is done with a clicker. It is not for everyone but if you want to do some obedience later on this is the time to start it.
Feeding puppies is fairly straight forward. Put the food down for the puppy. Give him 5 to 10 minutes to clean it up and pick the empty or partly empty bowl up. Don’t bother the dog while it is eating and don’t let the kids bother him either. Just walk away and leave it alone. If you have more than one dog, feed the puppy separately at first so the other dog does not steal the pups food.
Always keep in mind that everything they do at 8 weeks they will continue to do at 8 months. So if you are not okay with your dog jumping up and getting on furniture, now is the time to stop that.
It will be fall soon and the kids will be going back to school. And fall classes begin for just about everything that you can think of. So why not take the family dog to a class.
For the first time ever, we are offering group classes through the winter in Peterborough.
These classes are great for any dog of any breed or mix. In the class you will learn a lot of skills that make it easier to walk your dog on a loose leash. Your dog will learn to be responsible for some of his own behaviour like staying in one spot in the face of distractions. Distractions are an important part of dog training and we use them in a variety of ways.
Classes of this nature also help to prepare owners and dogs for upcoming obedience competitions, if you have an interest in doing something more with your dog. This class lays down the foundation for a “Companion Dog” title and most of the exercises for Novice Rally. It will also prepare dogs for the Canine Good Neighbour test, if you need to do this for any therapy dog course.
In addition to the Novice Obedience Class, we are also offering competition level classes for Open and Utility classes. This class will lay down some very simple basic skills that will prepare you to go on to the higher levels in dog training. We will transition from heeling on a leash to off leash heeling and begin to include drops on recall and retrieving exercises.
If this seems like something you may be interested in, please give me a call at 705-652-0682 and we can discuss your dog’s training.
Of course, we still do private lessons at our location north of Lakefield so if you need help with a particular problem please call to book a private lesson.
Your dog pulls on a leash and never comes when you call him. You have been to obedience classes and he still pulls on the leash and still runs away when you call him. He is stealing food from the counter and just ate your new shoes. He jumps on the kids knocking them over and if the door is open for a second….he’s gone.
If this sounds like your dog it’s time to consider a remote collar. That great dog that you always wanted could be sitting right there at your feet while you are reading this article. You just need a way to find that wonderful pet. A remote collar can do that.
I know what everyone says…”well it has to hurt the dog if it is going to work…right?” WRONG. The remote collars today are so sensitive that the dog feels something that is more akin to a mosquito bite than anything else. Sure remote collars do use a shock but my own personal dogs work at a level that I can’t even feel. All the training is done with the collar set at a level that the dog just barely notices. Some dogs notice the collar at a very low level and some don’t even sense it at all till the level is a bit higher. We recognize that each dog is an individual and no two even of the same breed are the same so the training program is adjusted to fit your own personal dog and adjust the level to your dog’s needs.
Regardless of what many may think, the dog is not trained with punishment. Rather the remote collar is paired with commands increasing the motivation to work with the trainer. Many people pick up remote collars at the store or order them off the internet and simply strap them to the dog and just start pushing buttons. That is a pretty good way to ruin a dog. Remote collar training is an art and a skill and takes time to learn.
Remote collars also work well for counter surfing, for car chasing, for jumping up, stealing clothes and for bolting out the door. In fact the remote collar can correct a whole host of problem behaviours. After about two weeks of training your dog will be one of the best behaved dogs in your neighbourhood and you will never have to scream at your dog to get him to come back. Fido will be able to walk at your side without pulling and will come back to you 100% of the time…..guaranteed!
We believe in this method so much that we guarantee the training. If the training did not work for you…simply return the collar and we will give you your money back. So far this has never happened mind you! If you would like to see a dog working on a remote collar, give us a call and we will give you a free demonstration.
You may have bought a puppy over the winter and now that it is summer and you want to go for some long walks, you realize that no matter how far you walk, you can never tire your dog out. And on the walk your dog is pulling like crazy. The walks are getting more and more unpleasant for you. It seems that every time your fully grown puppy sees another dog, the pulling and the barking are getting worse and worse. And you dare not ever let him off the leash because he never comes when he is called.
Believe it or not all these problems can be fixed with good solid common sense dog training. And that is exactly what we do. Good Solid Common Sense dog training….no magic and no gimmicks.
This summer we are offering several classes at DueNorth. We will begin in early June with our basic dog training classes. In this class we will focus on teaching dogs to walk on a loose leash. And that includes distractions. Now when you go on walks with your dog you can start to use your walks as training opportunities. Teaching your dog to come will also be introduced. There are so many things that we do that inadvertently teach dogs not to come. We address these in our classes. We use a balanced approach of corrections and praise. Dogs can learn to have self control. It is simply common sense!
In addition to this we have weekly group competition obedience classes for those owners who have a dog that they wish to compete with. We will work with you to solve any problem that you may have. We prefer to use some food in this training class but balanced with some kind corrections to help your dog to understand the exercises and what you want him to do. Here at DueNorth we have produced 4 Utility level dogs, more than anyone else in the Peterborough area.
One of our most popular classes are our private e-collar lessons. This is the most effective way of all methods to train your dog. It gets a bad reputation from those that have never used it before but after one free lesson it is easy to see how soft and gentle this method can be. And the results are stunningly reliable.
We also do puppy consultations. We feel that puppies are best socialized with stable adult dogs. In one lesson we can give you lots of choices to socialize your puppy safely and without spending a fortune on puppy lessons. And with that lesson we will also provide grooming tips and fun obedience lessons.
If you feel like walking your dog is more of a chore than a pleasant experience, think about training your dog. It will be more enjoyable for both of you.
Biting human hands is something that many puppies will try in their first weeks in their new home.
Biting a human is totally unacceptable for any puppy or dog of any age to do. If you allow this behaviour to continue….at what age is it going to be unacceptable? How are you going to tell an 80 pound Doberman that you want him to stop that biting?
The time to stop it is right now and not a moment later! One bite from a dog can often be a death sentence for that dog.
When he bites you, scream like someone just cut your throat. Stop interacting with the dog and turn away from the dog, wait a few seconds and turn around and act like nothing happened. This is what their mothers and siblings do. When it gets rough the puppies stop playing and this teaches a pup his limitations. Dog trainers refer to this as bite inhibition! Whatever you do though, keep it non confrontational. If you try to make a big huge issue out of this, the dog will become more aggressive.
Don’t engage in rough play with the dog using your hands. If you want to play with the pup use a rope toy or something similar. In this way, you teach the dog to play but you also teach him to play with a toy and not your hands. Always make sure that the game stops when YOU want it to stop. Use a word like out or give when you want to end the game and have the dog drop the treat. Exchange a treat for the toy in the beginning while the dog learns what out or give means. Dogs understand giving up something of less value for something of greater value. Don’t engage in roughhousing with your If the game becomes too intense. Avoid it until you can control the game. For some dogs even tug of war will be too intense for them and should be avoided.)
Some puppies may respond to you holding your hand firmly over their muzzle. You can add a command like “no bite” to these exercises but the behaviour should stop after about 3 or 4 episodes if you use these techniques.
Sometimes biting can be a bit worse when pups start teething. Take some hard rubber toys that your dog really likes and put them in the freezer and give those to your puppy to soothe his sore gums.
Instead of feeding all of your dogs kibble to him in a bowl, offer him pieces throughout the day in exchange for a sit, or a down or shake a paw. Hold the food in such a way that your fingers are entirely covering the food. The dogs first reaction is going to be to grab your fingers. If he tries to do that say “AHHH” in a growly tone of voice. When the dog looks up at you offer him the treat. This teaches the dog that you are in control of the resources and the food and he has to behave himself to get what he wants.
These exercises are important for all breeds of dogs especially the cute little toy breeds.
Purebred dogs! Why would you consider a purebred dog? Is there any benefit to having a purebred dog? Just why are they so much more expensive than other dogs?
I have purebred dogs because of what I do for a living. My job is to help other people to deal with their dogs. My dogs help me work with my clients’ dogs, so I want a dog with a stable predictable temperament that I can rely on. I know that my dogs did not leave their littermates until they were 8 weeks old. In this way, they had a stable beginning, because puppies learn most of their doggie relationship skills from 6 to 8 weeks of age. Because my dogs compete in dog sports that are designed for their breed, I can offer dog training experience based on my learning experiences with my own dogs. Many dogs have other jobs as well. Some are tracking dogs, some are drug detection dogs and others are designated couch potatoes. And yes many of these jobs can be fulfilled by mixed breed dogs and rescue dogs….but often not as predictably.
Generally speaking, most people that breed purebred dogs do a limited number of breedings a year. They usually have all their puppies sold before the breeding has even occurred. Good breeders are not contributing to pet over population because they breed so rarely. Good breeders look after their breeding stock and the dogs they own live a pampered life. Their bitches get excellent care and are spayed at the end of their breeding career. Good breeders know the dogs they have and the issues that may be in the pedigrees that they have. They track issues like hip dysplasia, congenital heart disease, congenital cataracts and a host of other issues that affect dogs. They spend considerable amounts of money each and every year doing medical testing on all their breeding stock and even offspring of breeding stock. They spend all this money on their dogs in the hope that they are providing you with a healthy stable pet. None of them make any money doing this. They do it because they love the dogs that they have. Good breeders are more likely to attend courses on raising puppies to be good companion dogs like the one I was at in Ottawa in early March.
Today there are ongoing marketing campaigns that malign purebred dogs. It is now almost a bad thing to say you are a dog breeder. Animal rights groups are determined to end all companion dog ownership and they love to target the dog breeders of the world. They want you to believe that every time a pure bred dog is born, another dog dies in a shelter. But the truth is far more complicated. Most people are unaware of the huge number of dogs that we are importing every day. They are coming in from the Caribbean and from the United States. A tractor trailer load of rescue dogs arrived last week in Nova Scotia with dogs from California and more are arriving every day.
Purchasing a purebred dog allows you to pretty accurately predict size, temperament, grooming requirements, and exercise needs. Finding a good breeder who will be there to help and support you through the life of your dog is priceless
When people call me for a training appointment, one of the number one complaints that folks have about their dog is that the dog won’t come when it is called.
I wonder how much effort the average person put into teaching this to the dog? Probably most people assume that the puppy they bought was born speaking English. So I assume not a lot of effort goes into teaching the word to the pup.
The puppy gets let out loose in the backyard to do his business and we call come when we want to get back into the house. At first the puppy might come because you are interesting, probably slapping your legs….but after awhile the puppy begins to find the yard is more interesting than you are. And at about the same time, the puppy figures out that if it does not want to come back to you…well there is not a heck of a lot that you can do about it. Screaming at the dog to come is making it even worse than ever….now you are not just boring but scary as well.
So change things around. Get yourself a long line and a pocketful of treats….make them yummy treats like cheese or chicken. A long line is a cord of about 30 feet. Put the puppy outside dragging the long line. Let the puppy do its business and play around a bit.
Now step on the long line and tell your puppy to come. If he does not come, show him what you want by picking up the line. Pull him toward you and when he gets to you praise him up and give him a treat. After a week or so you should start to see a pretty good recall in your yard.
Now take him out to somewhere fenced and safe and practice with some distractions. Keep doing things like this for the first year of your puppy’s life and you are going to start to see a dog that really does understand what ‘come’ means and they will also be pretty convinced that you have magical powers because the long line always ensures a good return.
If your dog is older this will still work but it may take a bit longer to undo his previous experiences….but it can still be done. You can teach most old dogs new tricks.
So if you have a new puppy arriving soon, teach him to come right from the start and you should end up with a great recall.